Iturup: Embraced by the Sea and the Ocean

From my very first months at RussiaDiscovery, I became drawn to active travel — camping in tents, rafting trips, horseback riding. At first, I was considering destinations closer to Central Russia, but over time I began dreaming of far more remote places.

Once, a colleague told me about two work trips: a cruise around Iceland, followed by one to the Kuril Islands. Iceland certainly impressed her, but it was the passion with which she described the Kurils that truly stayed with me and earned them a place on my list of dreams.

Arrival in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

You’re sitting on the plane, wrapped in the cocoon of everyday work and life concerns — but the moment you step out of the Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk airport, the rhythm changes. A different time zone, a different pace, a different agenda.

During the short drive to the hotel, accompanied by a guide, you absorb a flood of information: the weather, the nature, seismic activity, the island’s history, its cuisine, and much more.

Moscow is going to sleep while the Sakhalin day is in full swing, and carried by the adrenaline of newness, you follow the schedule. I marked my first day in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk with a visit to the local history museum. Next on the journey was Iturup, one of the Kuril Islands.

Flight to Kurilsk

The journey turns into an adventure! The excitement is off the charts—between Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk and Kurilsk, we’re flying on small Canadian twin-engine turboprop planes, so tiny that the landing gear stays down for the entire flight. The weather is perfect, and we’re glued to the windows.

We’re greeted by a local guide, who feels like an old friend—someone you’ve known for years, yet it feels just as warm. Outside the car windows, landscapes unfold like scenes from a Miyazaki film, while inside we chat about the daily lives of the Kuril locals. The town constantly surprises us, offering both novelty and a kind of heartfelt familiarity.

Meeting the Pacific Ocean

After breakfast, we head to the Pacific, to Kasatka Bay. Waves crash along the shore, and we take turns climbing out of the car hatch to feel the wind whipping through our hair, to immerse ourselves in the roar of the surf, and to take in the boundless panorama.

We stop to explore an abandoned ship and climb into caves, enjoy lunch in the salty ocean air against breathtaking backdrops, and then sit by the water, fully absorbing the atmosphere and sounds of the wild. There’s so much space around us that we naturally spread out, and everyone finds their own private moments.

I say “we,” but it’s not just about the group. My friend is traveling alongside me, and experiencing everything together makes it even more intense. I know some prefer solo travel, but my joy multiplies a hundredfold when I’m not alone. Iturup is perfect for sharing with those closest to you.

The Sea of Okhotsk and the White Cliffs

The next day promises an encounter with the Sea of Okhotsk and the White Cliffs. It seems impossible to top yesterday’s impressions — surely the emotional scale has reached its limit. How wrong I am.

I make my way over small dunes toward the shore and can hardly believe my eyes: the scene before me looks nothing like any sea I’ve seen before. Blinding sun, a cloudless sky, black-and-white sand, and water the color of turquoise.

We stop several times on the way to the White Cliffs — you simply can’t get enough of the beauty. I spot a family of sandpipers darting along the edge of the waves, searching for food. I freeze at a respectful distance, unable to tear myself away from the mesmerizing and oddly charming sight.

Lunch is served — and the view on the table competes with the surrounding scenery for attention. Ahead lie more walks and quiet contemplation. Inside, a single refrain echoes: “Beautiful moment, do not pass away!” A day and a half on the island is enough to slow down completely. But relaxation comes with limits — linger too long, and the rising tide may hold you hostage. Life on the Kuril Islands depends on weather and nature; they shape a distinctive rhythm and way of living for the locals.

We return from the beach via Olya Bay, where admiration turns almost into outrage — is such a concentration of beauty even legal? — and into a sudden desire to drop everything and stay forever. Just a couple of days here, and you feel more sensitive, more open, more vulnerable.

The Thermal Waters of Baransky Volcano

A new day brings a new driver — who is also our guide. You meet him and, for a brief moment, feel a twinge of regret: you’ve only just grown attached to your previous companion. But then you realize how much richer your impressions become through different people. Over these days, we’ve spoken with locals born here, those who moved as children, and others who arrived later in life, following a calling of the heart.

“Were you born and raised here, or did you move?” we ask at the start of the journey.
“I was born here, grew up here. I love our island. I’ve never wanted to leave — and I still don’t,” he replies without hesitation.
“Wow. You answered all our questions at once.”
“And where are you from?”
“Moscow.”
“Do you know what sets this place apart from your megacities? Here, you feel ab-so-lute serenity.”

The weather added variety to our tour — we experienced it all: a brooding ocean under gray skies, a sunlit sea, and misty, rain-washed thermal springs at the foot of the volcano.

Yankito Lava Plateau

We began our visit to the thermal baths in style: eggs cooked right in the hot spring, served with a sip of sparkling wine and red caviar. After surrendering to relaxation, another extraordinary sight awaited us — the Yankito lava plateau.

Thousands of years ago, Iturup’s volcanoes erupted with such force that streams of molten magma surged across the island, filling in the land’s uneven contours before solidifying into sharp, red-orange rock formations. It feels like another planet.

Farewell to Iturup

We marked the planned finale of our Iturup journey in high spirits — but the heavens had other plans. A flight delay kept us on the island longer. We didn’t mind; there was still plenty of time before our departure to Moscow. Our hotel neighbors were less fortunate — the weather disrupted their connecting flights and urgent commitments.

Lesson learned: when traveling to the islands, always build in extra days for unpredictable weather. The locals confirm it.

Our unexpected day of waiting gifts us a farewell stroll along the sea — a two-kilometer scenic trail stretching from Kurilsk to the village of Kitovoye. Taking advantage of the moment, we buy stacks of postcards, send messages home from the island, and bring our adventure to a beautiful close.