A fine present for a real traveller is a journey to the end of the earth – to Sakhalin and the Kuril islands. The fuming volcanoes, bizarre shapes of the rocks, grand waterfalls, noisy bird colonies, abundant bamboo side by side with fir trees and magnolias, Far East crab and the surprising fusion of the Russian and Japanese culture make a trip to Sakhalin and the Kurils an amazing discovery.
“I envy you – you will be lucky to discover another world! Like in the childhood… With all its exuberance and austerity, incredible and threatening beauty, the nature is childlike here. Like in the dream or in the aquarelle forgotten under the rain is the ocean – the real ocean with whales and immense ribbons of sea cabbage, so delightfully edible. The mountains are all breathing with fire, aligned in a row as heaps in the sandbox – there is a volcano wherever you go. Fir tree are side by side with tropical magnolias. The grass is higher than a human, which immediately changes your size and age. Hot baths with soft towels are possible in taiga forest and on the seashore. The bears – should you misbehave! – could eat you. If you behave yourself, you will taste a kilogram of the red caviar, or a sea ,urchin or a crab… It is difficult to be a bad person on the islands. Difficult, silly, and disadvantageous. All people are at home and belong here. You will not have time to start belonging here, but I would like to advise you being yourself – and the best of yourself. Be delighted in a sincere and childish way by the landscapes and aromas, be horrified by the local stories of tsunami and earthquakes – and I swear that you will see how some severe ranger or an officer emergency situations will give you an absolutely childish smile.” (Alexander Gordon)
Day 1 (Thu)
Arrive in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Meet your English-speaking guide in the airport. Transfer to the hotel ***, check-in. Our discovery of Sakhalin and the Kurils will start with a guided city tour of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, the capital of the region. The local guides know their own city well and are proud of it. Make your way through the city that has both modern houses and old wooden houses with small kitchen-gardens, go up the Krasnaya Sopka (Beautiful Mountain) hill to have an excellent panoramic view over the whole city and surrounding mountains covered by the dense forest. Visit the park established by the Japanese and the place where once upon a time was a Japanese Temple, and find out the difficult history of the Japanese-Russian relations on this land.
Visit the Sakhalin local lore museum, one of the richest in the Russian Far East. If the time does not permit visiting the interior exhibitions, see the outer display - the canons of Port Arthur and Japanese weapons, ethnography section on the architecture of the local indigenous populations (aina and nivkh). You can also drop by a tiny local souvenir market right behind the museum, where one can find some surprising objects like paintings of the fish skin, or continue exploring the city on your own.
In the evening it is recommended having a rest after the long flight and for accommodation of the jet lag.
Dinner at your own choice and expense in the hotel or in a city restaurant - in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk you can easily find a place to taste the delicious fresh seafood.
Night in the hotel *** in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk (DBL-basis).
Day 2
Today we set out to explore the nature of the Sakhalin and the Kurils, so striking in beauty and diversity. Breakfast in the hotel, check out. Leave for a half-day trip to the mysterious Lyugushka (Frog) Rock, which was a sacred site and temple of wisdom for the indigenous aina people. After half an hour transfer, arrive in the settlement Vestochka. Have a 3-hrs walk through the fir tree forest and meadows of grass of an incredible height. Meditate next to the sacred rock and enjoy a breath-taking view over the Aniva bay, Tunaicha and other lakes, forest-covered hills and a pyramid mountain. Learn about the sad destiny of the aina people whose beliefs influenced the Japanese culture.
At 14.00 leave for port Korsakov. 16.00 – Depart by ship Igor Farkhutdinov to Iturup, the largest island of the Russian Kuril archipelago. The ship starts its 18-20 hrs long journey in the Okhotsk Sea, and now it is time to enjoy the views - the mountains of the Anivsky bay, never-ending sea, fins of the dolphins and killer whales cutting the water surface, numerous noisy birds around the boat, and a splendid sunset... If we are particularly lucky, we might spot a gray whale. In the pure sea, we are heading for encounter of the virgin forests, crystal-clear mountain rivers, volcanic fumaroles fields of the Kuril islands.
Meals aboard at your own choice and expense (appr RUB 500 or EUR 10-15 pp per meal). Attention: no card payment possible, only in cash in Russian rubles.
Night aboard in standard rooms for 4 persons with a sink; WC/shower shared. Ship: capacity 100 persons, 2 decks, a restaurant and a bar.
Day 3
In the morning see the approaching peaks of volcanoes of the Kuril islands. It feels like the edge of the earth indeed – behind the Kurils, there is the vast Pacific ocean stretching for many kilometers, and America.Arrive on the island Iturup, known for its history and nature - Baranski volcano, scenic lakes and numerous waterfalls including one of the highest waterfalls of Russia named after the epic hero Ilya Muromets. During the Japanese jurisdiction the island was not well-populated due to the harsh climate, and the nature remained pristine.
Get ashore in the settlement of Kurilsk and make a way by car or mini-bus along the dirt track to our base tent camp. On the way, you can spot some remnants of the military base that existed till the 90’s - the ruins of the military dwellings, tank towers and earth fortifications are all covered now by the bright green grass and field chamomile flowers.
Arrive in the tent camp where we will live during our stay on Iturup, get settled and have lunch prepared by the camp cook. On Iturup, we will taste a lot of fresh fish and some local plant specialties like burdock and laminaria.
In the afternoon, undertake a trip to Reidovo settlement to visit the local Hydrostroi fishery and processing plant, where you will learn about the fish and caviar processing. The plant functions normally when the fishermen boats arrive loaded with fish or during the period of fish spawning. And of course, you will also have a chance to taste the local high quality fish products.
Have a short walk to see an impressive wall of the small numerous waterfalls formed by the waters flowing from the Bogdan Khmelnitski volcano. Taste the local Kuril mineral water (the famous brand in Russia). On a clear sunny day, we might visit the so-called Kuril Riviera, a bay of absolutely transparent green seawater, with an immense beach of the soft white sand surrounded by the mountains that are covered by the rosehip bushes.
Lunch and dinner, night in tents in the base tent camp (a tent-canteen and a tent with a biotoilet).
Day 4
After breakfast, have a transfer to the pier. Go by an inflatable motorboat to the bay Konservnaya in the Okhotsk Sea (7 hrs in total, 40-50 min aboard one-way). On the water you will be observed by curious and friendly eared seals and accompanied with shrill cries of the seagulls. The scenic shoreline will impress you with its variety: abrupt rocks and stones of weird shapes, waterfalls in tiny streams and rich cascades, green glossy slopes, abundant vegetation, bizarre trees hanging above the shore, stone landslides and silent bays. Stop at the bird colony located on the small island islands. Walk on the rocks covered by scarce lichens of diverse colours giving to the place a special austere beauty typical for the north. Discover an incredible number of seagulls co-existing within such a limited space, see their nests and quarrels.
In Konservnaya Bay, stroll along the beach together with your guide and walk to the ruins of a Japanese fishing settlement dating back to 1905-1945 when Iturup was part of Japan. These places are famous for the presence of many red foxes who are not scared of human beings.
Lunch on the shore (taste either the Russian fish soup or fish barbecue “shashlyk”). Dinner and night in tents in the base tent camp.
Day 5After breakfast, set off for Baranski volcano (5-6 hrs depending on the weather and your interest).
Travel 30 km by car along the challenging dirt track towards the foothill of the majestic Baranski volcano, across the hill slopes, marshes and amazing forest. Watch how the gorgeous magnolias and lianas give place to the twisted birch trees and stylish umbrella-like silver fir trees.
Stop at a geothermal power station. The pressure of the vapour released from underground locally is sufficient for providing the whole Iturup island with electricity.
Have a walk around the scenic field of fumaroles to see the warm rivulets, boiling puddles, active mud pots, a tiny geyser, spectacular strips of the multi-coloured clay, bright crystals of sulphur, and miniature mud cones – all quietly gurgling, hissing and squelching. The impressive volcano cone towers high next to the fumaroles field.
Go further by car to the boiling lakes. A hot river takes its source from a small but deep lake filled with hot azure water and surrounded by a yellowish sediment strip of sulphur. From time to time, the bubbles disturb the smooth lake surface, and you shall remember that you risk to burn yourself if you put a hand into this water.To complete today’s acquaintance with the real volcano kingdom, we will visit the hot sulphur springs. It is right time to take a dip in the arranged pool of the pleasant warm water of a greenish shade. You can also walk up the warm rivulet to find a private natural bath or go down to the waterfall to take a special - green and hot - shower.
Lunch as a field snack; dinner and night in tents back in the base tent camp.
Day 6After breakfast, get ready for a new experience – depending on the weather and the group’s interests, we will go for halibut fishing or for a sea trip to Lvinaya Past (Lion’s Snout) or Kasatka (Killer Whale) bay (appr 5 hrs).
Transfer to the pier (1.5 hr) and departure by boat. Halibut prefers big depths where it can feed on the squids and octopus. You will watch an amazing fishing for halibut. If you are courageous enough, you will receive the fishing tackle - kapron ropes with big hooks and salmon or other fish as a bait – and will try your own luck in getting this flat fish whose weight is 20-30 kg.
In late afternoon, we will visit the radon springs. Enjoy a hot relaxing bath in the curing hot water.
Lunch as a field snack; dinner and night in tents back in the base tent camp.
Day 7
After breakfast, leave for a full-day trip by car and foot. Today we will visit the spectacular White Rocks, Maiden’s Plaits waterfall, and Sopochnoe lake.
We will follow the shoreline along the White Rocks by car and will stop to walk on the dark sand of the beach, out of which are growing the grayish-white rocks that seem blinding-white on a sunny dry day. The pumice of the White Rocks was formed in times immemorial as a result of the colossal eruption with an ejection of the fiery gas cloud, and nowadays it seems homogeneous and has a thickness of appr 150m. You can go up the rocks to have a beautiful view over to the sea and surrounding area. After the White Rocks, you will have a breath-taking view of the Devichyi Kosy (Maiden’s Plaits) waterfall, a falling powerful mass of water. An impressive waterfall, gigantic burdock plants and hawthorn bushes make you feel yourself small at the scale of Nature.
On the way to Sopochnoe, we will pass by the old Japanese air field where the Japanese army was preparing the Pearl Harbour operation.
Walk in the peaceful landscape of the Sopochnoe lake: everything is covered by the bright green carpet of flowers, a narrow sand stretch separates the lake from the sea bay, and 4 impressive rocks guard the entrance to the bay.
Return to the base camp. You can make special your last evening on this wild, austere island by watching the sunset. Lunch as a field snack; dinner and night in tents back in the base tent camp.
Day 8After breakfast, transfer to the sea port. Board the already familiar ship Farkhutdinov and leave the hospitable Iturup island. The beautiful views of the islands, mountains and the sea with its wildlife will be with you all this day.
Meals aboard at your own choice and expense (appr RUB 500 or EUR 10-15 pp per meal). Attention: no card payment possible, only in cash in Russian rubles.
Night aboard in standard rooms for 4 persons with a sink; WC/shower shared. Ship: capacity 100 persons, 2 decks, a restaurant and a bar.
Day 9
Arrive in the first part of the day in the port Korsakov. Transfer to the town and check-in at a hotel ***.
Free time in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk or optional trips for an extra fee on the spot (in RUB cash only) – for example, to the Mud Volcano. The price of participation in an optional half-day excursion will depend on the number of participants; the trip to the Mud Volcano can cost appr RUB 2000 or EUR 50 pp (in RUB cash only).
Meals aboard and in the city at your own choice and expense. Night in the hotel (DBL-basis, ***).
Day 10
Breakfast, check-out at 12.00. Group visit to the local fish market, the best place to get the local products – caviar, fish, juice of the local berries, etc – to bring home with you as a souvenir of your trip to Sakhalin and the Kurils, and transfer to the airport and departure by flight to Moscow and further on to your country.
