New mountains that are not yet conquered are the best challenge for a true mountaineer. We invite you to climb the magnificent glacier-capped Elbrus, once upon a time volcano, and nowadays the highest peak of Europe and Russia.
This itinerary offers winter ascent to Elbrus from the south.
Day 1
Arrive in Mineralnye Vody. Transfer to Terskol village (without a guide). Check-in at the hotel (modest conditions, DBL). Meet the local guide in Terskol, who will brief you on the itinerary, check your outfit and equipment and will advise which special equipment you need to rent for Elbrus ascent. Dinner at your own expense. Night in the simple hotel (basic conditions, DBL). Day 2
Today we set off for our first acclimatization hike. The numerous acclimatization hikes are the best guarantee of preventing the altitude sickness and performing the successful climb. Today we go to Cheget peak (3050m). From the slopes of Cheget, there is a magnificent view over Elbrus, Nakru and other most scenic peaks of the Caucases. Light lunch with hot tea. At the height of 2750m it is good to drop by the famous among the locals “Ai” café to taste delicious hot pies with meat or bilberry and admire a panoramic view of the Baksan valley. Practice techniques of walking on the snow and self-stopping on the snow. On the way back, you can stay at the downhill skiing station to enjoy skiing or snowboarding (at extra fee on the spot). Return to Terskol, dinner at your own expense. Night in the hotel (DBL).
Day 3
After breakfast we'll have a transfer to the lowest station of the ski lift. Have a ride to MIR station and further to Gara-Bashi refuge (Bochki, or Barrels) located at 3800m. From Mir station up the ski-lift is sometimes out of operation, and in this case you shall be ready to walk up to Bochki refuge, while the main luggage is transported by snowmobile (decision and extra fee on the spot). Light lunch with hot tea.Check into the Barrels Refuge. These are small huts/containers shaped like barrels to stay in. There are beds for 5-6 persons in each barrel to sleep in own sleeping bags, temperature is around +5C). There is no shower, the toilets are in a separate hut outside.
Today, we will have briefing about the major rules of climbing the mountains and will undertake an acclimatization hike to 4100m (where Priut 11, or Diesel Hut refuge is situated) and further up to 4300-4400m. Return to the Barrels refuge, dinner and overnight.
Day 4
Today we are going for an acclimatization hike to the Pastukhov Rocks (4400-4600m). Light lunch with hot tea. Practice walking on the snow, self-stopping on the snow, check and adjust the climbing equipment. Return to the refuge to learn how to use the special alpinism equipment, making the knots, etc. Dinner and overnight in the Barrels refuge.
Day 5
Today we are making the way to the Pastukhov Rocks (4600-4800m) and venture further, up to 5000m. This section might require installing the ropes. Practice how to walk on the ice: using the crampons and ice axe. Light lunch with hot tea.
Return to the Barrels refuge. Dinner and overnight in the refuge.
Day 6
Today is the rest day, when we are getting ready for The Climb. It is recommended to go down to one of the ski-lift stations (Mir at 3500m or Krugozor 3000m). You can also go for downhill skiing and snowboarding (extra fee on the spot).
Go to bed early to be in a good shape for the night climb. Dinner and overnight in the refuge.
Day 7
Today we will attempt to reach the main target of our trip - summit of Mt Elbrus (5642m). We have to start very early before dawn. Wake up at 2 am to leave at 3 am (weather permitting).
The guide will choose which summit you are ascending – East or West Elbrus peak - on the eve of the day, depending on the group fitness and experience, weather conditions and route state. This decision is taken by the lead mountain guide on the spot and is not subject for discussion by the tour participants. Using headlamps, we will make our way to Pastukhov Rocks where we stop for a short rest and then continue. After the saddle (5300m) is reached, the summit climb itself will start. The total climb duration takes 8-10 hours, the deadline for reaching the summit is 13.00, after this hour we have to start descending. In case of successful climb, the reward for you will be standing on the top of the highest mountain in Europe, overpowered by the intense feeling of freedom. Descend to the Barrels Refuge (usually 5-6 hrs). Dinner and overnight in the refuge.
Day 8
Go down by ski-lift to Azau station, transfer to Terskol village. Accommodation at the hotel, rest.
Celebration dinner of the national cuisine (extra charge on the spot). Night in the hotel (DBL).
Day 9
After breakfast, transfer to Mineralnye Vody airport and departure by flight from the Caucases.
About climb
The climb from the south is graded 2A in the Russian system of mountaineering. This is not a technically difficult climb, the ascent is rather a great test of stamina, and with proper acclimatization and good weather, an average person in good physical shape can reach the summit.
The climb takes 12-16 hrs (8-10 hrs ascent and 5-6 hrs descent). One mountain guide per 4 tour participants is assumed for the climb. Good physical shape is required from the tour participants. Prior experience in alpinism is preferable but not necessary. The participants without climbing experience will be introduced to the main climbing techniques (use of crampons and ice axe, knots, etc) during the days of acclimatization hikes.
In winter, the temperature on the mountain can go as down as to -30C. Winds are usual.
The main obstacles of successful climb are high altitude, fog, wind and cold. We cannot guarantee that every tour participant reaches the summit – it depends on the shape and weather conditions. However, according to the summer statistics, 9 clients out of 10 perform the climb successfully. More uncertainties are in autumn and for New Year.
Pls request the Tour Operator to provide the detailed information sheet on what shall be taken along
